Sol Food Festival 29th & Bagrada Bugs Update!

SOL FOOD FESTIVAL September 29th, 10am-6pm 

In Santa Barbara Ca at Plaza de Vera Cruz 130 East Cota Street, Santa Barbara, that’s across the street from the Saturday Farmer’s Market!   Join us for this great, local event geared towards growing & eating locally & sustainably grown food!

I’ll be talking on the Making Change Stage from 11 to 12 on What to Plant This Fall, and then Seed Saving!  You’re invited!  Bring family and friends!  🙂

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Bagrada Bugs UPDATE!

Bless our marvelous community!  Here are some contributions to help you:

1)  One of our Master Gardeners wrote:  In the midwest, where there are large infestations of Japanese beetles, the solution is a pan of soapy water which is held under the plant while you try to catch the pests; they drop down into the soapy water and can’t get out.  Maybe that will work with the Bagrada bugs!

Thanks for the dropping bug technique!  That would work well because if you disturb the plant they drop to the ground and run like hell!  They disappear in seconds!  It’s amazing to see – the ground is covered with them, then they are gone!  If you held a large wide thin frying pan with a shallow bit of soapy water, under a section of the plant, it could be done section by section.  That would reduce populations very quickly, given their propensity to drop right where you would want them!   Yes, I do believe that would work terrifically!

2)  A Trinity Gardener reports:  I was at the [Farmers] market this morning and learned that John Givens has experienced an infestation of the Bagrada beetle that took out an entire bok choy crop. Since he is such a revered and long time organic farmer I decided to call him to learn how he chose to handle it.  Long story short he uses a product that requires a commercial license and when I looked it up (it’s called Ensure and is made by Dow although it’s OMRI certified) its main ingredient is spinosad. 

However, per San Diego Master Gardener, Vincent Lazaneo, UC Urban Horticulture Advisor, Emeritus, ‘…insecticides like Spinosad (an organic product) and carbaryl (Sevin) have a more persistent toxic residue which may harm honey bees and other beneficial insects.’  Read the article.  Please consider your choices carefully.

3)  Sep 28 This just in from Pacifica’s Organic Market Gardens founder and land manager Marshall Chrostowsky:

We small farmers have been badly affected this summer and early fall by the surprising infestation. I’ve been exchanging e-mails with some farmers whose fall-planting schedule has been thrown out the window. We tend to find growing many of the greens and cole crops easiest in the fall. Seedlings of all these tend to collapse and become stunted from feeding by the adults and younger instars. In the course of piercing and sucking out cell contents, these bugs seem to introduce a toxin or perhaps microorganism that stunts and deforms the plants.

More mature crops in the Kale, collard and other more rugged-leaved crops survive feeding pressure but Chard, beets, radishes tend to become badly damaged and flavors affected by the feeding pressure. When under attack, many plants put out phytochemicals to defend against further feeding. Other crops that I have that have feeding damage: some beans, Black Beauty eggplant, ornamental and weedy grasses (wheats are said to be a prime food source for the bugs.) The bug is also known to be attracted to plants in the landscape and may well overwinter in such habitats.

For controls, I have experimented with the following: frequent shallow cultivation (eggs are laid more in the soil than on the plants), shaking larger plants over buckets of soapy water, hand picking/killing, DE [diatomaceous earth] dust (works with very young bugs and maybe eggs), horticultural soap, Neem oil and BioNeem (alcohol-based), Spinosad (more a repellent). I may trial Red-hot Wax with garlic and chili oils but am reluctant. Plant-derived oils (canola, clove, rosemary, mint, etc.) might serve as repellents and offer some control but crops plants could be damaged.

I let out one of my chickens in one untreated section but she was more interested in dust bathing and chowing down on every plant just in case one kind was better than another.

4)  Speaking of birds, from Ron at Rincon Vitova insectary in Ventura. Mardena also recommends attracting “working birds” to the garden by putting out shallow water, preferably moving water. If you have a deep fountain, put rocks in it so birds can find shallow water.  He says:  Natural predators and parasites will eventually bring this down to being a minor pest.  [Very soon, I hope.]

5)  Excerpted and adapted from Trinity Garden Manager Rose Keppler Moradian:

SOAPY CLAY WATER

• Clean out all you old Brassica plants, weeds, ground cover [and mulch]
• Soak areas with SOAPY water
• Shoot any bugs down with SOAPY water, squish ’em
• Mix SOAP and POWDERED CLAY (Kaolin clay sold by brand name”Surround” from Garden Alive, or just use powdered clay).  Both soapy water and CLAY kills them!  **Clay covers the plant with a white residue: LEAVE IT ON. It acts as a barrier and does not affect the plant’s ability to live.  When the bugs get the clay on them it smothers them.  Joe Palumbo, the foremost expert on them, agrees with me.

Don’t plant any Brassicas, that’s

kale
cabbage
broccoli
cauliflowers
radish
kohlrabi
Brussels sprouts
rutabaga
turnip
pac choi
mizuna
mustard

’til you’ve treated cleaned up areas for two weeks, with daily soapy clayey waterings.

An excellent variety of Kale I’ve been growing is “Fizz.” It’s very tough, with a naturally occurring gray/white coating on the leaves, which led me to conclude that the coating has something to do with the natural protection it had against the Bagrada.  This coating also makes it more drought tolerant, as most gray or “glaucous” plants are prone to be.

6)  So far, personally, I have daily handpicked and squished, and still lost several plants, the damage is quickly done.  Per last month’s suggestion to interplant with smelly plants, I have divided patches of bunch onions and society garlic and installed them between my Brassicas.  I’m not sure that’s working, but I’ve planted a patch of garlic chives to put among further rounds of Brassicas.  Gardeners’ nightmare.  Early discovery, and immediate and PERSISTENT action, will pay in this matter if you have a small garden. Again and again, I see it written to combine your techniques. Please refer back to Bagrada Bugs & Winter Veggies solutions as well. They are at the bottom of the post. And, again, if you are in a community garden, please tell other gardeners about this pest and ask them to keep watch also, especially newcomers and beginner gardeners. If they aren’t on our newsletter list yet, I would be grateful if you give them my info. Cerena@ItsAstroLogical.com

Please, please, please, check incoming transplants at purchase, and again before you bring them into the garden.  One small relief so far seems to be if a plant, like my broccoli and cauliflowers, reach a certain size, they seem to get beyond the Bagrada attack, they in the meantime killing the smaller plants.  But we will see when all the smaller ones are gone….  Probably a good thing to remove any mulch hiding places too.  I have found them mating in the straw.

For the latest info, please also see Independent article ‘Buggin’ Out!’  We are not alone.  The subtitle is ‘Bagrada Bug Onslaught Has Growers Scrambling’

Good luck to you all!  Please let us know your failures and successes.  The Bagrada bugs are here to stay.

   

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Bagrada Bug & Winter Veggies!

Now that we are planting winter plants, this creature is one to pay attention to because those are its favorites!  Infestations have already occurred in Pilgrim Terrace Community Garden on broccoli and kale.  The population explodes, overwhelming the entire plant.  The word infestation takes on true meaning here.

Small black bugs with orange and white spots.   Bagrada bug is a major pest of crop plants such as cabbage, kale, turnip, cauliflower, mustard, broccoli and radish.  In the U.S., harlequin bug is used as a common name for another species of shield bug, Murgantia histrionica.  It was first found in Los Angeles County in June 2008 and has spread widely in other Southern California regions since then.  It is not known to bite humans or carry any sort of disease.

Bagrada will also go after warm-weather crops such as papaya, potato, corn and beans, but is more lethargic in heat. It spends its time in the soil, laying eggs or hiding; heavy rains drive it out of air pockets and onto the plant du jour.  It prefers to eat seeds and succulent plants, so when local climates dry and reduce available food such as wild mustard in Southern California’s canyons, into town it comes.

Adults and nymphs suck juices from the plant. Feeding results in large stippled or wilted areas on leaves, white edges being one of the first signs.  Often the growth of newly formed central shoots or heads of plants become stunted.  The pest can stunt growth and kill plants.

Populations can build up quickly reaching damaging densities that require control. Heaviest infestations are typically observed at organic farms, community gardens, and residential vegetable gardens where little or no pesticides are used. Gardeners often think they have beneficial lady bugs, because Bagrada adults and larger nymphs are about same the size and coloration as ladybugs.  They are good at disguise. It also has a potent aroma. “Once you smell it, you will never forget it,” said Gevork Arakelian, senior biologist at the Los Angeles County Department of Agricultural Commissioner/Weights and Measures. “It’s very specific for stinkbugs, a pungent, intense, parsley odor. Birds don’t touch them. If they eat one, they disgorge it immediately.”

Usually all life stages are present together on plants and adults are commonly observed in copulation.  Since Bagradas lay most eggs in the soil, natural predators such as wasps aren’t effective controls. It is often not feasible to pick off by hand because the infestations are so thick and sudden.  If you try it, it takes two hands.  They see you coming, move fast, drop to the ground never to be found!  Put one hand underneath and close it fast when they drop.  If you step on them, be sure the squish factor has happened, because they are smallish, and just sink in rather than squish, get up and walk away to tell the story.  Sorry, just trying to give you the idea what you are up against.  Normal pesticides can be used to ward off a Bagrada bug infestation, but insecticides aren’t an option for many gardeners, and adult bugs will simply flee one garden for another, only to return when the residue of pesticide is gone.

–> If you garden in a community garden, tell everyone about this pest, ask your neighbor gardeners to keep a close watch after heavy watering or rains.  <–  I’m checking each of my susceptible plants daily and have found some of the bugs, which I immediately sent to Heaven.  I don’t know if they were already at the garden, or came in with the transplants.  Check for eggs on the undersides of leaves of transplants you purchase.

What you can do! From infonet-biovision, Nairobi, Kenya – they oughta know since this little pup hails from Africa!

Cultural practices
Monitoring– Regular monitoring of the crop is important to detect bagrada bugs before they cause damage to the crop.
Sanitation – Crop hygiene, in particular removal of old crops and destruction of weeds of the family Cruciferae prevents population build-up.
Hand picking – Handpicking and destruction of the bugs helps to reduce damage. This is particularly important in the early stages of the crop. Hand picking is only practical in small plots.
Cultivation – Eggs laid in the soil are readily killed by cultivation, so frequent light cultivation (once or twice a week) of the vegetable beds will help in controlling this pest (Keizer and Zuurbier; Horticultural Research Program, Botswana).
Irrigation – Watering and overhead irrigation disturb the bugs discouraging them from feeding on the crop. However, note that use of sprinkler irrigation may lead to increase of diseases such as black rot and downy mildew.
Mixed cropping – Growing strong smelling plants such as garlic, onion or parsley near the crop are reported to reduce infestations (Dobson et al, 2002).

Biological pest control
Natural enemies – Eggs of bagrada bugs are parasitized by tiny wasps. Bugs are parasitized by flies (e.g. Alphorn sp.).

Biopesticides and physical methods
Plant extracts – A mixture of chili, soap, garlic and paraffin has shown to be an effective control method in trials in Namibia (Keizer and Zuurbier).
Natural products – In Namibia there are reports that sprinkling the plants with crushed bagrada bugs repels other bugs. This can be used effectively in combination with frequent soil cultivation (Keizer and Zuurbier).
Soap solution – Spraying plants with a soapy solution (bar soap) has been found effective against bagrada bugs. It helps to wash off young bugs (Dobson et al, 2002; Elwell and Maas, 1995).

There you have it!  Due diligence, and if you believe in it, prayer!

9.28.12 see UPDATE!

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Glorious September – Pea Lover’s Month!

What a fine time to be planting, great weather! Fall transplants are in the nurseries! I have already planted purple broccoli and cauliflower along with some late summer lettuces. I’m going to clear spots in front of my finishing beans for the new little peas, also available now as transplants at the nurseries. I saw them at La Sumida – Patterson, along with some red cabbages! You know we have that Bagrada Bug now (see next post please), so it is recommended to generously plant stinky plants like onions, garlic, parsley among the Brassicas/Coles – brocs, cauliflowers, kale, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, to put off the Bagradas. Believe me, you don’t want them. I have seen an infestation, and it is a sad thing.

Remember, it is so easy to sprout peas! Dampen the paper towel, spray the towel to keep it moist. You will have sprouts before you can believe. You just have to be careful not to break them when you plant them. Clearly, you get 100% production this way, no empty spots in the line!

Gopher barriers NOW! Before you start your fall planting, get that gopher barrier in! A perimeter 18” to two feet deep, plus 6” above the soil line, each section well joined to prevent push-through access. Gophers love lettuces, chard, peas. Or your can plant in baskets, purchased or home-made. Baskets can be in small areas, for example, just the lettuce patch in the corner, or the single basket for your celery plant. Just be sure they are deep enough for that plant.

Soil Prep is Key for fat growth! Clean away debris, spent or unhealthy plants. Now it the time to lay in that compost you have been making, and a generous portion of worm castings! Add some manure to your lettuce, parsley and garlic beds, Brassica areas. Peas are a legume and make their own Nitrogen, but sometimes they can do with a tad more if that soil is depleted. Some spots may need a bit of peat moss. Or, ‘lasagna garden,’ starting with cardboard/newspaper, layer on dry/wet, that’s straw/alfalfa (high in Nitrogen) and green waste like grass, kitchen scraps, until you have a pile 18” high or as high as you can make it with the materials you have. At various points throw on a bit of manure, scatter some soil to inoculate it with soil organisms. If you have some Vermicomposting worms, toss some of them in too. Nature will do its work, your pile will sink down. To plant immediately, scoop open a spot, put in compost, plant your plant. The heat from the decomposing pile will get your plants off to a great start! You want humusy soil that is nutritious with great water holding capacity.

Yummy fall veggies include all your Brassicas – cabbage, brocs, Brussels sprouts, collards cauliflower, kales. Plant celery, mustard greens, spinach, chard and lettuces in shadier spots behind plants that will protect them during the September heat, but who will soon be done allowing your lettuces and friends full sun when it is cooler later on. Remember, September can be HOT. Put in some lettuce from seed, and some from transplants for an earlier harvest – two rounds at once! Parsley seeds need to be kept moist for 20 DAYS! Perfect time for cool weather lovers arugula, cilantro, curly cress. Plant peas at the base of your finishing beans. Plant Sweet Peas for Christmas bloom! Plant the all-years beets, carrots, chard, radishes, rutabagas, turnips.

Plant favas where you will plant your tomatoes next summer, or where you didn’t plant favas last year. I was quite pleased with the health and production of the veggies I planted where the favas were last year. Why favas? They are a legume and put Nitrogen in your soil. The delicious beans are, loCal, high in protein, iron and fiber. The tender tops are a wonderful steamed green. They become green manure when you chop them while young, just as they start flowering, and till them into your soil. They are a great winter cover crop, producing one of the highest rates of compostable organic material per square foot!

The weird thing about favas is when you let your best plants’ pods dry for seed saving, you don’t harvest the pods until they dry and turn really ugly, black!!! I didn’t know that early on, thought my pods were diseased and rotten, carefully cut them off and threw them away…groan.

Reminder! You can buy bulk organic fava seeds at your natural foods stores! Ask for them if you don’t see them out on the floor displays. Here is a great short John Kohler vid on saving MONEY buying bulk seeds at natural food stores, and presprouting to plant your fall favas. Presprouting equals 100% germination and mucho time saved since favas have a notoriously low germination rate! It’s a no-brainer since it is so easy to do!

For Pests and Diseases? Drench young plants with Aspirin solution to get them off to a great start!

If you are wondering what happened with the Maxiforts (tomato grafting), I hurt my hands late July, so didn’t get to participate in the experiment, but will let you know how it goes with my other Master Gardener friend’s tomato grafts.

Have a delicious September, Dear Gardeners!

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