A late start in our coastal SoCal gardens is not a problem! Plant the same as you would in April plus now is perfect time for cantaloupes! If you are doing winter squash this year, better from transplants now. If your garden has had soil fungi that sickened your tomatoes, a later start is to your advantage. The soil has had time to warm and dry a bit, killing off some of that fungi. Those of you that did late March, early April plantings, plant your 2nd rounds now or later in the month!
It’s still good timing to sow seeds of lima and snap beans, beets, cantaloupe, carrots, celery, chard, chicory, chives, slo-bolt cilantro, corn, leeks, heat tolerant lettuces, melons, okras, green onions, peanuts, peppers, pumpkins, soybeans, warm-season spinaches, squashes, sweet potatoes, and tomatoes. At the same time put in transplants of what you can get, and you will have two successive plantings in at once! Choose bolt resistant, heat and drought tolerant varieties when you can.
Smart Companion Planting! WHITE radishes with cucumbers repel cucumber beetles. Interplant cucumbers and beans to repel cucumber beetles and prevent the wilt diseases they carry plant to plant. Cucumber beetles are literally deadly; they are NOT cute. Plant your cukes on mounds with a little well on top; alternate with beans planted low next to them. The both need plenty of water, but the cukes need the soil to dry bit to help keep the wilt away. Water carefully so as not to degrade the mound/well. Check them time to time and restore if they need it. If you will be pickling, tuck in a couple lovely dills here or there. When they flower, they are perfect bee food. Also plant radishes with eggplants as a trap plant for flea beetles. Flea beetle damage, little pin holes, seems so less severe, but it slows the growth of your plant way down, and there is little production. Plant your favorite varieties of potatoes to repel squash bugs. Long beans like it really hot. Wait until June to plant them. Also, they are the last bean producers, filling in at the end of summer when your other beans are finishing. When they are happy, you won’t believe how quickly they get that long! Certain varieties don’t get mildews! Their taste and texture is slightly different than our standard green beans, but delish also!
I hope you planted your garlic, bulb onions, and shallots in their own little patch, because later this month, when foliage on begins to dry naturally, stop irrigating. Dry outer layers needed for long storage will form on the bulbs. When about half of the foliage slumps to the ground naturally, bend the rest to initiate this maturing. The bulbs will be ready for harvest when the foliage is thoroughly dry and crisp.
Healthy everbearing strawberries will be producing like crazy, maybe your June bearers too since we have been having early warm weather! Give them a fish/kelp mix feed, now and after each heavy fruit-bearing period for continued strong growth and fruit set. One of our gardeners fed his every other week and his harvests, in shoe boxes, were outstanding! Know that fishy stinky stuff also attracts skunks and other foragers, so use something else, like Bunny poop if you can get it. Avoid mulching with salty manures, especially chicken; strawberries don’t like it. Water short rooted varieties of strawberries more frequently, as well as keeping your beans and cukes well watered. They are all workhorses producing fast and repeatedly, cukes making a watery fruit even.
In this drought year, summer mulching is an absolute! Self Mulching is the cheapest, easiest technique! Transplant seedlings close enough so that the leaves of mature plants will shade the soil between the plants. If you choose to do this, alternate plants that get the same diseases or pests with plants that don’t get the same diseases or pests. That’s all there is too it! Roots are cool and comfy, less water needed. Natural mulches feed your soil as they decompose. Avoid any that have been dyed. Mulch keeps berries, cukes, squashes up off the ground, less likely to be chomped by snails and soil critters. Soil diseases don’t have access to susceptible leaves. It prevents soil splash so you have a clean harvest.
Again! TOMATOES! At gardens that have the Fusarium and Verticillium wilts in the soil, choose your tomato varieties with that in mind. Heirlooms don’t have as much resistance as the toms that have VFN or VF on their tags or seed packets, like Ace, Early Girl, Champion, Celebrity. The V is for Verticillium, the F Fusarium wilt, N nematodes. Your next choice is whether to buy determinates or indeterminates. Determinates grow about 3 to 4′ tall and quit, producing lots of toms all at once, great for canning. Indeterminates vine forever all summer long, fresh table tomatoes every day! If you have soil wilt problems, planting determinates, successively, and replanting (not in the same spot) as you lose plants, may be your best solution. In these times of drought, and you have no soil wilt problems, indeterminates are the way to go so you aren’t continually watering plants that aren’t producing yet. Unless, of course, you are going to be canning. Special care is needed for tomatoes in wilt infected soils. La Sumida has the largest tomato selection in the Santa Barbara area!
Reminder ~ Water Wise Practices!
- Please always be building compost. Compost increases your soil’s water holding capacity.
- This California drought year consider planting IN furrows, where the moisture settles and the plants’ root areas will be slightly shaded. Rather than losing water to evaporation from overhead watering, put the water right where it will do the most good and nowhere else.
- And, PLEASE MULCH. It keeps your soil cooler, moister, less water needed.
- Sprinkle Mycorrhiza fungi right on the roots of your transplants when you put them in the ground. They increase uptake of nutrients, water, and phosphorus that helps roots and flowers grow and develop. Ask for them at Island Seed & Feed in Goleta.
Always! Plant Bee Food, Herbs and Flowers! Sow or transplant basil, borage, chervil, chamomile, chives, cilantro, comfrey, dill, fennel, lavender, marjoram, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, tarragon, and thyme. Be mindful where you plant them… Mediterranean herbs from southern France, like lavender, marjoram, rosemary, sage, savory, and thyme, do well in hot summer sun and poor but well-drained soil with minimal fertilizer. On the other hand, basil, chives, coriander (cilantro), and parsley thrive in richer soil with more frequent watering. Wise planting puts chives where you need to repel Bagrada Bugs, by your broccoli, kale, but away from peas if you are still growing some. Cilantro, a carrot family workhorse, discourages harmful insects such as aphids, potato beetles and spider mites, attracts beneficial insects when in bloom. Dill is a natural right next to the cucumbers since you will use the dill if you make pickles. They mature about the same time. Let some of your carrots, lettuces, cilantro, broccoli, chard, radish, bloom! Bees, and insect eating birds and beneficial insects love them and you will get some seeds – some for the birds, some for you! Grow beauty – cosmos, marigolds, white sweet alyssum – all benefit your garden in their own way!
Born May 30, 1835, poet Alfred Austin: The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to feed not just on the body, but the soul.
See the entire May 2014 Green Bean Connection Newsletter!