Chard is the bouquet of the Garden! Whether it is all green, a white stemmed Fordhook Giant, or Bright Lights/Neon from white to neon pink, bright oranges and reds, brilliant yellow, it is glorious! And it’s not just another pretty face, it’s a prodigious producer, Cut-&-Come-Again, and again, and again! In our SoCal clime, it acts as a perennial, sometimes living for several venerable years! Low calorie, it is packed with vitamins K, A, C, E, and B6. Chard is also very good source of copper, calcium, phosphorus, and a good source of thiamin, zinc, niacin, folate and selenium!
Chard is a top producer per square foot! It is a fast prolific crop maturing in only 55 days! It tolerates poor soil, inattention, and withstands frost and mild freezes. But it likes a rich sandy loam soil – well manured and composted with worm castings added. It likes lots of consistent water, full sun, and plenty of space! A healthy chard, will take a 2 to 3’ footprint, more if it is a Fordhook Giant! At 28” tall, it makes a shadow, so plant accordingly! Some varieties, like Fordhook, have crumpled leaves, lots of leaf per space, like curly leaf kale, lots of return per area used. Others have a flatter leaf. Rhubarb chard has a narrower midrib.
Chard seeds are actually a cluster of seeds (like beets) and will produce more than one plant, so thinning and/or micro greens is part of the story! Spacing will determine the size of your plants. Too crowded, shading each other, they will be smaller. With full space, they will produce to feed an army! If you are harvesting baby chard leaves on a regular basis, space them 2″-4″ apart, or 8″-10″ if you plan to harvest less often. Generally, row planting chard is not your best choice because of leafminers. See below…. Plant them here and there; interplant with stinky herbs! Sow chard seeds ½” deep; germination will take 5-16 days.
Leafminers are the bane of chard, spinach and beets. Plant so your neighboring plants leaves don’t touch each other. This is NOT a plant to row crop. Leafminers flies just lay eggs from one plant to the next. Separate your plants into different areas, biodiversely; interplant with herbs. They are so pretty I put them where they can be seen the most! You know you have leafminers when you see their trails or brown patches on the leaves as the miners burrow between the leaf’s layers. Remove those sections and badly infested leaves immediately. Keep your chard harvested and well watered to keep it growing and producing fast, sometimes outgrowing the leafminers. Give it plenty of worm castings both in the surrounding soil and on the surface. Cover the surface with a thin layer of straw to keep the castings moist. Some say soft fast growth is perfect habitat for the miners, but chard is meant to be a fast grower with plenty of water to keep it sweet! So if you can’t eat it all, find a friend or two who would appreciate some and share your bounty! Or remove plants until you have what you can keep up with. Plant something else delicious in your new free space!
Details from U of Illinois Extension: Spinach and Swiss chard leafminer flies are 1/2 inch long and gray with black bristles. This leaf miner lay eggs on the underside of the leaves side by side singly or in batches up to five. One larva may feed on more than one leaf. After feeding for about two weeks, the larvae drop from the leaves onto the ground where it pupates and overwinters in the soil as pupae. In spring, they appear from mid April to May and they cause serious damage compared to the other generations that appear later. [The life cycle is only 2 weeks long, and they can have five to ten generations per year! That’s why you immediately want to remove infected parts of your plant, to stop the cycle!] Cornell Cooperative Extension
Slugs & snails are chard’s other not best friends. Irregular holes in the leaves, that’s the clue. Remove by hand, checking the undersides of leaves and down in the center area where new leaves are coming. I chuck ’em where our crows gourmet on them. Or use Sluggo or the cheaper store brand of the same stuff.
Harvest chard quickly, rinse, pack loosely, get it into the fridge. Do not store with fruits, like apples, and vegetables that produce ethylene gas.
Let your most wonderful chard go to seed! It will likely get as tall as you are! Let the flowering clusters turn brown and hand harvest your anticipated number of seeds you would like, plus some extras in case, and some for giveaway or trade! The seeds are viable for 4 to 5 years if you keep them cool and dry.
Chard is young-leaf tender in salads, mature-leaf tasty steamed and in stews, sautéed, and in stir fries. Some people eat the leaf midrib, others cut it out, use it like celery, stuff and serve. And there’s always chard lasagna….
6-Large Leaf Chard Lasagna
Oil your baking pan
Lay in flat uncooked lasagna noodles to fit, cover bottom
Remove stems, lay in 3 unchopped chard leaves, more if your pan is deep enough
Sprinkle with chopped fresh basil leaves Sprinkle with chopped onion, garlic bits
Spread with flavorful cheese of your choice
Spread with zesty tomato/pizza sauce of your choice
Repeat. Pile it high because the chard wilts down
Top with onion slices, tomato slices, or whatever pleases you
Sprinkle with Parmesan
Bake at 375 for 45 mins
Let cool for 20 mins, EAT!
If you don’t eat it all, freeze serving sizes
Instead of chard, you can use spinach, fine chopped kale, strips or slices of zucchini or eggplant!
Have a tasty day!
Next week, Garden Tools Specially for Women!