Happy October, Month of Magic!
The next months…so you can plan ahead!
October Transplants of all fall crops, but specially of cabbages and artichokes. Cut Strawberry runners off to chill for Nov planting.
November Seeds of onions for slicing. Wildflowers from seed (don’t let the bed dry out). Strawberries in no later than Nov 5. More transplants of winter veggies.
December is winter’s June! Crops are starting to come in, it’s maintenance time!
My campaign this fall is for garden cleanup, and turning the soil to expose the fungi that affects our tomatoes, and other plants, so the fungi dries and dies!
This is Southern California’s second Spring! Time to plant your winter garden, all the Brassicas, that’s, cabbage, brocs, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, collards, kales, plus celery, chard and peas, peas, peas! All kinds! And what I call the ‘littles,’ the veggies you plant all year, beets, bunch onions (the ones that don’t bulb), carrots (bonemeal yes, fresh manure no), radish, spinach, arugula, and, especially, all kinds of lettuces! Plant gift plants or bowls or baskets for the holidays! Start making holiday gifts, herbal wreaths, powdered herbs, pretty vinegars and oils, shampoos, soaps, or candles!
Winter weather? Bring it on! Starting to cool down now! Your plants will grow fast then start to slow down. Less weeds and insects. Aphids & White Flies are a winter crop problem (see below please). Some people prefer the cool slower pace of winter gardening to the more phrenetic hot summer labor and work of big harvests, distribution, storage. Harvesting cold hardy vegetables after they have been hit with a touch of frost can enhance the flavor and increase the sweetness of greens such as kale and collards.
Extend the crop! Cut and come again! Harvest your big greens – kale and collards, and lettuces leaf by leaf rather than cutting your plant down. Many lettuces will ‘come back’ even if you cut them off an inch or two above ground. Leave the stalk in the ground, see what happens! Rather than pulling your bunch/table onions, cut them off about an inch to 2 inches above the ground. They will come back 3 to 4 times. Leave a potato in the ground to make more potatoes. After you cut the main broccoli head off, let the side sprouts grow and snip them for your salads or steam them. Cabbages? Cut off right below the head, then let them resprout, forming several smaller heads at the leaf axils.
Gather your last lingering seeds midday on a sunny dry day. Dry a few seeds from your favorite tomatoes! Sidedress continuing and producing plants. Then cleanup! Remove funky habitat for overwintering insect pests, fungi.
Prepare your soil!
- If you are a new gardener at Pilgrim Terrace, ask other gardeners, or the previous person who had your plot, how the soil was tended. Some plots may need no amending, others may need a lot. Add compost, manures, seaweeds, worm castings as needed. Some people do the whole garden at once, others conserve valuable materials by preparing only where they will specifically plant, for example, a large plant like a broc. If it is a lettuce bed that you will do repeated plantings in, you might opt to do the whole bed at once.
- Since mulch keeps the soil cool, some people pull it to the side in winter, to let the sun heat the soil on cool days.
- Simple soil test! Test the soil by putting a drop of vinegar in a teaspoon or so. If it fizzes, it’s too alkaline. Then test it by putting in baking soda mixed with a little water. If it fizzes, it’s too acidic.
- In addition to planting your veggies, plan ahead to plant flowers, to always have some in bloom, to attract pollinators. Borage is a lovely plant, blooms all year, has purple blue star flowers that are edible and good for you! Toss a few on top of your salads!
- Make habitat! Plants for beneficial insects, poles for birds, rocks for lizards!
- Plant tall in the North, the mountain end of our plots; plant shorties in the South. This is especially important in our winter gardens because of the low sun long shadows.
- Give your big plants plenty of room to become big; plant fillers and littles (beets, bunch onions – the ones that don’t bulb, carrots, radish, spinach, arugula, lettuces) on their sunny south sides!
- Put plants that like the same amount of water together (hydrozoning).
- Put plants together that will be used in the same way, for example, salad plants like lettuces, bunch onions, celery, cilantro.
- Biodiversity. Planting the same kind of plant in different places throughout your garden. It can be more effective that row cropping or putting all of one plant in one place, where if disease or a pest comes, you lose them all as the disease or pest spreads from one to all.
- Layering example: Transplant peas at the base of any beans you still have.
How to plant!
- This is the time to put your mycorrhiza fungi to work! One of the great things mycorrhiza does is assist Phosphorus uptake. Of the N-P-K on fertilizers, P is Phosphorus that helps roots and flowers grow and develop. Sprinkle it on the roots of your transplants when you plant them! More about mycorrhiza: http://www.mycorrhizae.com/index.php?cid=468& http://www.mastergardeners.org/newsletter/myco.html Island Seed & Feed carries it.
- Use vigorous fresh seeds, choose vibrant not-fruiting transplants that preferably aren’t root bound (having a solid mass of roots). If the transplant is pretty big for the container, pop it out of the container to make sure it isn’t root bound. If it is the only one there, and you still want it, can’t wait, see what John R. King, Jr (2 min video) has to say on how to rehabilitate your plant!
- Lay down some Sluggo (See Slugs & Snails below) right away, even before seedlings sprout, when you put your transplants in, so your plant isn’t overnight snail and slug smorgasbord!
Strawberry Runners! Mid Oct cut off runners, gently dig up if they have rooted, shake the soil off. Clip all but two or three leaves off, tie ‘em together in loose bunches. Plastic bag them and put in the back of your fridge for 20 days. Plant them Nov 5 to 10! Prechilling your plants makes them think they had a cold winter. When days get longer and warmer, they will produce fruit, not as much vegetative growth. You can then either keep your plants that produced this year, or remove and compost them, start fresh with new plants!
Watering – Morning when you can because plants drink during the day, and we want them to dry so they don’t mildew! Water underneath, especially late beans, and your new peas, who are especially susceptible to mildew. Except for your short and shallow rooted plants, once a week and deeply is good unless there is a hot spell or rain. Then, check ’em. Poke a stick in the ground to see if the soil is moist under the surface.
Happy playing in the dirt!