Posted in Amendments, Arugula, Basil, Bat - Seabird Guano, Bean, Beets, Bone Meal, Carrot, Chard, Cilantro, Corn, Cucumber, Design - Layout, Determinate, Disease, Early Blight, Eggplant, Epsom Salt, Fertilizer - Sidedressing, Foliar Feeding, Fish - Kelp, Fungus, Fusarium Wilt, Green Beans, Heat Tolerant, Herbs - Culinary, Medicinal Food Magic!, Jicama, Late Blight, Legumes - Peas, Beans, Fava, Lettuce, Manure, Melon, Mycorrhizae, Nonfat Powdered Milk, Okra, Onion, Parsley, Peas, Pepper, Potato, PreSoak, PreSprout, Pumpkins, Radish, Seeds, Squash, Strawberries, Succession, Sunflower, Tomato, Turnip, Varieties, Veggies!, Verticillium Wilt, Watering, Watermelon, Worm Castings, tagged 105, 55, 75, AAS, airborne, All America Selections, April, arugula, baby, basil, bat, beans, beets, Black Seeded Simpson, blight, bloom, bolt, bone meal, bud, canner, cantaloupe, carrots, casting, chard, cilantro, coast, coat, community, compost, cool, corn, cucumber, daytime, deactivate, degree, dense, disease, drop, early, eggplant, eHow, endive, Epsom Salt, F1, feed, fish, foliar, French Breakfast, fungi, fusarium, garden, gound, grain, Green Bean Connection, green beans, greens, guano, harvest, heat, heirloom, herb, humidity, hybridize, Jericho, Jetsetter, kelp, kernal, leaves, Legend, lettuce, lover, maintenance, manure, mature, may, mesclun, milk, mow, mulch, mycorrhizal, Nevada, New Hampshire, New Zealand, night, nonfat, Nufar, Nursery, onion, Orange Blaze, oregano, overplant, parsley, Peas, pepper, Pilgrim Terrace, Plant, pollen, pollination, presoak, presprout, protein, radish, resistance, Romaine, root, rosemary, sage, Santa Barbara, seabird, seed, shade, sidedress, Sierra, silk, slicer, slo, soak, Soil, Solanacea, spinach, squash, stunt, succession, successive, sucker, summer, sunflower, Surecrop, tassel, thyme, tipburn, tolerant, tomato, transplant, turnips, variety, verticillium, VF, VFFNTA, VFN, virus, water, watermelon, wilt, winter, worm, wound on April 1, 2011 |
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Why not start with an AAS (All America Selections) 2011 Winner?!
Pepper ‘Orange Blaze’ F1 Early ripening orange variety, very sweet flavor, multiple disease resistances!
AAS 2011 Winner - Orange Blaze F1 Pepper
Get out last year’s garden notes if you made any, and review for varieties you liked, where you got ‘em, how much to plant!
Plant in blocks, not rows, for pollination. When tassels bloom, break off pieces and whap them on the silks! Each silk is one kernel, each needs one grain of pollen!
Corn hybridizes – plant only one variety, or varieties that don’t have pollen at the same time. This is pretty much not doable at a community garden since everyone is planting all kinds at any time, so if you harvest seeds, don’t expect true results!
Heat tolerant, tipburn resistant lettuces – Nevada, Sierra, Black Seeded Simpson, Jericho Romaine
Slo bolt cilantro, arugula in semi shade (among your corn?!)
Eggplant love humidity and heat. Tuck ‘em in between, right up against, other plants. Near the cooler coast plant the longer length varieties that mature earlier.
Jicama, limas, melons, okra, peppers, seed potatoes, pumpkins
From Seed: basil (Nufar is wilt resistant), chard, green beans (while peas finishing), beets, carrots, corn, endive, New Zealand spinach, parsley, radish, squash – summer & WINTER, sunflowers, turnips. Coastal gardeners, get your winter squash in NOW so it will have ample time to mature.
The radish variety French Breakfast holds up and grows better than most early types in summer heat if water is supplied regularly.
PreSoak and/or PreSprout for 100% success! Click here for details! Per eHow: How to Soak Watermelon Seeds in Milk Before Growing. Sometimes the seed coat carries a virus, and the proteins in milk will also help deactivate the virus. Read more
Transplants: cucumbers (hand pollinate?), tomatoes, watermelon
WAIT FOR MAY to plant cantaloupe
Herbs from transplants – oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, thyme
Plant successively! If you put in transplants now, also put in seeds for an automatic 6 week succession! Plant different varieties (except of corn if you want true seed - see above)!
If you overplant, thin for greens, or transplant when they are about 2 to 3 inches high. Lettuce, carrots, onions. Too many stunt each other. OR, this from Santa Barbara Westsiders Lili & Gabor: Overplant mesclun on purpose, then mow the little guys! If you are at home, plant densely in a planter bowl, cut off, leaving 1 ½” of stem still in your soil. They will regrow, you will have several months’ supply of tasty baby greens. Plant two or three bowls for more people or more frequent harvest! Give a bowl as a gift!
Plant for excellence - Throw a handful of bone meal in your planting hole along with a handful of nonfat powdered milk, worm castings, compost/manures, mix it all up with your soil. Sprinkle the roots of your transplant with mycorrhizal fungi! That’ll do it! Stand back for bounty!
REMOVE LOWER LEAVES OF TOMATOES Wilt prevention. Water sparingly or not at all after about a foot tall. Wilt comes from the ground up the leaves and is airborne. Remove any leaves that touch the ground or could get water splashed. Don’t remove suckers – airborne fungi can enter open wounds.
Sorry, NO HEIRLOOMS if you know the soil has the wilts. Heirlooms don’t have resistance. Get varieties with VF on the tag or that you know have resistance/tolerance.
Mid day, rap tomato cages or the main stem, to help pollination. 55 degrees or lower, higher than 75 at night, or 105 in daytime = bud drop. Not your fault. Grow early varieties first that tolerate cooler temps.
Pilgrim Terrace Community Garden Kevin and Mary Smith have had successes with 2 blight resistant/tolerant determinate varieties, New Hampshire Surecrop, a 78 day, great tasting slicer/canner, and Legend, a very early 68 day! Ask for them, and more Jetsetters, with unbelievable VFFNTA resistance/tolerance, at your nursery. See Tomatoes and Wilts here at the Green Bean Connection Blog for a list of additional resistant/tolerant varieties and tips!
Maintenance! Sidedress when blooms start. Fish/kelp, foliar feed Epsom salt for Solanaceaes, seabird guano (not bat) for more blooms, manures for lettuces and leaf crops like chard, collards.
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Posted in Amendments, Basil, Bat - Seabird Guano, Community Gardens, Determinate, Disease, Disease Resistant, Fava, Fish - Kelp, Fusarium Wilt, Late Blight, Mycorrhizae, Summer Plants - Warm Season, Tomato, Verticillium Wilt, VFN, Worm Castings, tagged airborne, April, ArcaMax, basil, bell bean, blight, canner, companion, counteract, cure, dandelion, determinate, diagnosis, disease, dompost, Earlly Girl, early, fava, Gene Bazan, Genovese, heat, humidity, Jeavons, Jetsetter, lab, Legend, lemon, lover, March, New Hampshire Surecrop, Nov, Nufar, Nursery, pathology, Penn State, pesto, purple, resistant, seed, Sep, slicer, SoCal, Soil, Surecrop, tolerant, tomato, variety, verticillium, VF, VFFNTA, VFN, wilt, windborne on March 27, 2011 |
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Jetsetter Tomatoes, Early, VFFNTA!!!!
It may seem a bit early to talk about tomatoes, but tisn’t! Hey, it’s always ok to talk about tomatoes, right?! There are important things to know about that start well before planting time! Read on….
Last year I tried the dandelion cure – either I didn’t do it right, not enough dandelions soon enough, or it doesn’t work. But this year I am going to plant toms where the dandelions grew into big patches, just in case there are any residual benefits! This year I found this info from Gene Bazan, Ph.D, about toms and favas and I have fava seeds!!!!
Favas First, then Tomatoes! Or….
Gene says: Many years ago I introduced a diseased Early Girl tomato plant I purchased at a greenhouse. Unknown to me, it had verticillium wilt. I thought the wilted look was just due to dry conditions, but didn’t think much about it. I composted the debris, and unwittingly used the diseased compost in the following year’s tomato bed. That year I lost 3/4 of our tomatoes to wilt. I then took a diseased plant to the pathology lab at Penn State, and got the diagnosis. I remembered that Jeavons wrote that fava (bell) beans counteract wilt, so the next year I planted fava beans in early April, and put the same tomato varieties in the same bed. Mortality dropped to 1/4th. Since that time, we always precede tomatoes with bell beans. We have reduced wilt even further.
Clearly, here in SoCal, we have missed the usual Sep to Nov fava planting window, so let’s do as Gene did, plant favas and tomatoes at the same time! I already have one Jetsetter (those are Jetsetters in the image), unbelievable VFFNTA resistance/tolerance, in the ground surrounded with a six pack’s worth of favas. All doing fine so far. Next fall decide where you will plant your 2012 toms and put in a patch of favas then and there! Plant your toms, as usual, starting in March.
Basil and Wilts Since so many of us like to companion plant basil with our tomatoes, and tomatoes are so wilt susceptible, and the wilt fungi are in the soil and windborne to boot, what’s a Pesto Lover to do?! Get wilt resistant basil variety Nufar! Pesto lovers, Nufar is the first basil that is wilt resistant, developed in Israel in 2006. It is a Genovese basil, heat and humidity tolerant, and very tasty! ArcaMax Publishing says: …some of the specialty basils (such as lemon and purple basil) have shown some resistance to the disease. If you can’t find Nufar basil locally, do send for seeds ASAP, and ask our local nurseries to stock it!
And please, do NOT compost diseased tomatoes, or any other diseased plant. Better to trash it, not even put it in green waste that the City will make into compost. That’s how you spread soil born fungi, let alone that they are also windborne. If your neighbor has a diseased plant, don’t be shy to respectfully and gently ask them to remove it. Remember, they raised that child, besides having paid for it. How hard was it for you to give up your plant? Especially the first time. See? They may not even know about wilts. Educate them if possible. Tell them how you learned about it. Offer to forward this info to them.
TOLERANT. Some varieties like Surecrop, mentioned below, are wilt tolerant. They keep producing well though diseased. What to do? At Pilgrim Terrace, the soil has the wilts and wilt is virtually unavoidable. Slowing it down is probably the best we are going to do. So, find out what variety your neighbor has planted before you make your request for them to pull a producing plant. If the plant is simply dead, then it is a nonproducing disease factory, better for everyone that it is removed ASAP. Use your discretion and kindness.
If you have success with a particular variety, do let your nursery know so they will stock it again! A couple gardeners at the Terrace have had good luck with 2 blight resistant/tolerant determinate varieties, New Hampshire Surecrop, a 78 day, great tasting slicer/canner, and Legend, a very early 68 day! The best to you with yours!
See Tomatoes & Wilt, Part 1 for a list of Wilt Resistant Varieties, How to Save Your Plant Tips
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